Talpapa Interior

Talpapa
 

Pet and People Friendly
'Los Dos' B&B

Lake Chapala & Mountain View

Chapala

Guadalajara

Shop 'Til You Drop
Tlaquepalque

        Talpalpa, Guadalajara, Chapala

     After a stopover in Manzanillo and accommodations that would be fortunate to rate a half star, we decided to head inland through the small State of Colima to beat the heat, with our first destination being a picturesque mountain village called Talpalpa that was high enough up to be in a pine forest.

    We then meandered into the Lake Chapala area (Gringo Central), south of Guadalajara, and checked into the very dog friendly and excellent “Los Dos” B&B in Jocotepec for several days. The owner lined us up with a dog groomer for a very shaggy looking Milo. He was getting too hot and burrs had been plaguing his Poodle fur. So for a bargain $12, he got a buzz. Lake Chapala’s mild year-around climate has attracted about 7,000 norteamericanos as permanent or seasonal residents. The bougainvillea-walled homes, the narrow, cobblestone streets, and the parks with the lake in the background give it something of an Italian lakes feel.   We enjoyed side trips to Guadalajara (surprisingly navigable by automobile) and the fashionable shopping area of Tlaquepaque.

     Upon leaving the Lake Chapala area, we drove into the mountains to the south and to Mazamitla, another village with an Alpine ambience (white stucco buildings with heavy timbered balconies, doors, windows), although still very Mexican.  On the outskirts are posh lodgings that are favored by the well to do from Guadalajara.  The area is pine forested and there are hiking trails with grand vistas, creeks and waterfalls. 

    Zamora, Morelia, Patzcuaro

   Heading southeast through Zamora, we somehow missed the hotel district all together, but we found a “National Park,” in reality a popular picnic, hot springs, and recreational spot located on a small lake.  The gate attendant gave us permission to camp next to the soccer field for the night.  We were the only ones left in the park after dark; Milo was in dog heaven -- after a heavy day’s use of the park (it was a Saturday), there was garbage strewn everywhere.  Before dawn a clean up crew arrived to clean up in time for the Sunday throng.

     Our next destination was Patzcuaro, which was one of the loveliest small cities we had yet seen.  Being Sunday and a popular tourist spot, it was crowded.  The PRI was sponsoring one of its local pre-election rallies, bussing in area campesinos to listen to speeches and mariachi-type music.  The loud speakers, as big as bulls, blared at a commensurate volume.  Excepting the noise, Patzcuaro, at 7000 feet, has a Mexi-Tyrolean feel.  There is a nearby lake with other interesting villages around it. 

     Our third week started in Morelia, a prosperous city with an impressive European-flavored core.  Again we had trouble finding lodging so we drove out a distance on the toll road to spend the night at “Camp Pemex,” the no-cost campground of last resort.  Pemex is the only brand of gasoline sold in Mexico, being a government-owned monopoly, and its stations are generally spacious, well lit, with clean restrooms and a convenience store of one form or another.  It actually wasn’t bad; we both slept well.  Later on our trip we spent another night at the Pemex Arms, this time nestled among a row of truckers similarly camped, with a reefer (refrigerated truck) off our stern, running its engine all night to keep its contents cool.  That night was less restful.

    To the Pacific via Cuernavaca and Back Roads

     The next day, we headed cross-country to Cuernavaca.  After missing a turn or two, we ended up in the mountains on a road that started out very good, but then deteriorated, ending with about 15 bone-jarring miles winding and steep dirt road.  It suddenly dumped us into a street containing a row of elegant hillside houses perched atop tall stone-walled foundations covered with bougainvilleas.  This was the outskirts of Cuernavaca, which has long (since the Aztecs and before) been the summer retreat of the wealthy from Mexico City.  The city is very hilly, has narrow streets and far too much traffic.  We decided to move on.  Outside of Cuernavaca, we picked up the toll road back to the Pacific Coast, with its terminus at Acapulco.   

Below:  Guadalajara Cathedral, Mazamitla Flower Seller

Lost-But Lovely Scene,
on Back Roads to Cuernavaca


Morelia

Bill, Milo, and Admirers, Morelia

Patzcuaro

Patzcuaro

Patzcuaro
 

Mazamitla